Burgundy: An eternity on borrowed time

In 2015, the yield loss was estimated nationally at 4.6 hectoliters per hectare per year (Source: FAM-CNIV-BIPE Mission 2015), but Frédéric Barnier estimates that in Burgundy, it is around 20%. "This represents the quantity of wine that is missing each year for the price of Burgundy wines to return to a normal level," according to an expert on the market. For now, the reasons for this phenomenon are not clearly identified. Climate change? A series of droughts? A change in viticultural practices? Or simply a vine variety that is not well adapted to Burgundy? Everyone has their own explanation, without being entirely convinced of it. "This decline is taken into account globally within the framework of the national Vine Decline Plan," Laurent Delaunay tries to reassure. Each wine-growing region contributes to this plan; Burgundy, for example, contributes 100,000 euros annually. "There is no real treatment," laments Justine Savoye. "We tested adding potassium. It helps to slow the decline, but it doesn't reverse the trend."

It would seem that the only effective solution is to uproot and replant the affected vines. But the cost is enormous. "The BIVB estimated the cost of replacing the 161-49 rootstock with other varieties at 8 euros per vine." That's 72,000 euros per hectare for a vineyard planted with 9,000 vines. "And we must keep in mind that there are at least four years without a harvest after replanting, and a full harvest will only occur after eight to ten years," continues the technical expert. A financial sacrifice that many winemakers are not ready to make. "The economic model of Burgundy works so well that it doesn't encourage change," observes this same expert. “Until this promising system breaks down, due to a lack of grapes to harvest.” Laurent Delaunay regrets that replanting isn't happening often enough, “whereas production conditions and climate factors should be prompting us to accelerate the process.” Frédéric Barnier indicates that “the replanting rate in the Burgundy-Beaujolais-Savoie region is barely 1% per year, whereas it should be at least 2%.” But what should be planted? In 2021, a BIVB press release highlighted the underutilization of rootstock varieties in the region, with only five varieties (41B, SO4, 3309C, 161-49C, and Fercal) covering 95% of the vineyards.

Promoting diversity
Some have realized that new solutions must now be sought. Thibault Liger-Belair, a winemaker in Nuits-Saint-Georges, has recently planted 34 EM, a less vigorous and drought-resistant rootstock, on an experimental basis. “With the BIVB, we initiated the GreffBourgogne project, in which we are testing about ten rootstocks on experimental plots,” explains Frédéric Barnier. “Jadot has also made a 1.5-hectare plot available for the project in Comblanchien, where we are conducting observations on six rootstocks.”

The same is true for Chanson, where Justine Savoye has also joined the GreffBourgogne program. She is using various rootstocks in her new plantings, such as 333 EM, 1103 Paulsen, 140 Ruggeri, and 110 Richter. “Fortunately, our shareholder, the Bollinger Group, supports us. This allows us to invest and experiment.” As for the BIVB, it has made this issue its main focus and priority, allocating 17% of its budget to technical and research and development activities, or approximately three million euros per year. “We have also launched trials with two new rootstocks, a first in a long time,” recalls Laurent Delaunay.

Burgundy is also a partner, along with Champagne, Beaujolais, and Jura, in the Qanopée project, a greenhouse located in Oger designed for the pre-propagation of vines in a pest-proof, climate-controlled environment, in order to provide nurseries with healthy planting material. “We will gain an additional 25% safety margin with these plants,” says Laurent Delaunay, who nevertheless warns that they will cost a little more, around 2.5 euros per plant. “When you plant vines, it’s for eighty years. Spending an extra euro per plant shouldn’t be a problem.” Other initiatives have emerged, such as the one jointly undertaken by Gest Bourgogne (the group for the study and monitoring of terroirs), currently chaired by Thibault Liger-Belair, and Sicavac (the interprofessional service for agronomic, winemaking, and analytical advice in the region). “We have established a set of specifications with our partner nurseries so that they provide us with plants developed according to our requirements,” explains the winemaker from Nuits-Saint-Georges.

“When you plant vines, it’s for eighty years. Spending an extra euro per plant shouldn’t be a problem.”